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Bearded Dragons • Redfoot Tortosies • Chameleons • Custom Cages
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Dragon Caresheet

Housing: Young Hatchlings should be kept in a 10-20 gal. enclosure. NO LARGER This makes it easier for them to catch their food. If you have a larger enclosure, section a portion of it off and increase the amount of space as they get older. They should have a basking area on one end of the cage that should be around 100-105 degrees. On the other end of the cage the temperature should be around 85 degrees. These temperatures are very important to. If they are to cool, they will not eat well and if they get to hot, they will become dehydrated. Be sure to use thermometer to adjust the temperatures. They will regulate their body temperature by going from one end to the other as needed. Night temperatures can drop as low as 60-65 degrees.
Natural Sun is always good but not always possible. So you will need a source of simulated sunlight. For this we use a Reptisun 10.0 UVB bulb. There is a bulb that supplies heat and UVB in one but beware (it does get extremely hot) therefore not suitable for small enclosures. If you use the fluorescent UVB bulb, it should be place where they can climb to within 8” to 12” so that they can absorb the rays. Lights should be turned on and off at the same time each day. For best results, lights should be on 12-14 hours per day and set on automatic timer.

Feeding: Before first feeding in the morning, allow them to warm up for an hour or two. It is important to gutload your crickets before feeding them to your dragon. Remember what ever goes into your crickets, is also what your dragons will be getting. You can gutload your crickets by feeding them a variety of veggies, fruits, baby rice cereal and even reptile vitamins and calcium. Babies should be feed ¼ size crickets until they are a couple of months old. Never feed crickets that are to large because this can actually kill baby dragons, a good rule to go by is never feed larger than the space between their eyes. Babies should be feed 2 or 3 times a day. Our adult dragons, we feed we feed crickets once per day (the same time each day) and greens and pellet food in the morning. Before feeding, Crickets should be dusted with a good calcium supplement with D3 once a day and dusted with a multivitamin once a week. For this we recommend Rep-Cal with vitamin D3. As a multivitamin, we recommend Reptivite. We start our dragons on veggies at a very early age and they should be offered veggies daily. These can include (collards, turnip greens, mustard greens, squash, Romaine lettuce and carrots) just to name a few. No iceberg lettuce or spinach. It is better to offer veggies first thing in the morning before their first feeding of crickets. They should be sprayed with water a couple of times a day. You will notice that they will usually lower their heads and start lapping the water in. Continue to spray their heads as long as they continue to drink. We also soak our dragons once or twice a week. This will help to assure that they do not get dehydrated and also assist in shedding.

Substrate: For our babies, we use shelf liner, which can be purchased at most any local department store. We cut it to fit the bottom of the cage or tank. It has a rubber backing and it will lay down flat. This makes it harder for the crickets to hide during feeding and easier for the babies to catch. When dragons reach 3 to 4 months of age, we put them on ceramic tile, which is very easy to clean. We DO NOT use play sand. Play sand can cause your dragon to get impacted and cause death.

Here is what you will need for your new dragon:

*  Enclosure suitable for the size dragon that you have

*  Basking Light
(heat Source).

*  UVB Bulb (Artificial Sunlight).

* Calcium powder with D3 (We use Zoo med Repti-Calcium).

*  Vitamin Supplement.(We use Zoo Med Reptivite.)

Climbing Branch


Food Dish

*  Vegetables

*  Crickets

*  Cricket keeper (Plastic Tub)

*  Cricket Food



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Last Updated
November 17, 2019
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